Dictionary

Ingredients of Medicinal Plants

Aliphatic Acids: acids, such as malic, citric, and tartaric, that are known for giving most fruit its sharp, tart flavor.

Alkaloids: are active bitter pharmaceutical principles derived from plants. Alkaloids are basic, nitrogen containing organic compounds, that react with acids to form a salt, the latter being a preferred form because it is more soluble than alkaloids. Most alkaloids are toxic and must be used properly to avoid poisoning.

Glucides : are one if the products of photosynthesis; they acts as food reserves within the plant cells, providing energy and certain necessary materials for growth. Heterosides: active pharmaceutical principles derived from plants, combined with sugars or glucides (mucilages). They are chosen therapeutically for their specific pharmaceutical action on an certain organ. Mucilage: mucilages are sticky plant sugars that are very useful in preparation of medicines due to their ability to absorb water and form think viscid colloidal solutions that hold insoluble substances in suspension. Resins and Essential Oils: known for their scent, these are, however, little more than waste products that are dangerous for a plant to retain and must therefore be discharged in the air. Resins are for the most part oxidized essences, a complex combination of organic acids formed in the secretory gland and ducts. Preparation of Medicinal Herbs Methods of preparing a remedy directly from plant material depend on the ingredients’ texture or the nature of the constituents. Maceration—used for plants containing mucilage (glucides), i.e. flax seeds, are soaked in cold water. Infusion—extraction of a therapeutic principle by boiling plant in water, mainly used with the soft parts of a plant, such as leaves, flowers, or seeds,. Decoction – the cooking of wood, bark, stem, roots, or other such hard plant material. Maceration An extraction by water performed at room temperature for as little as 2 and as much as 12 hours Maceration—Decoction When both hard and soft parts of the plant are necessary for the preparation of a medicine, then maceration is used first, followed by decoction. Infusion Plants are placed in boiling water in a pot with a tight-fitting lid (which prevent volatile essences from escaping), and left for 5-15 minutes before being filtered. The infusion should be taken immediately. The prescribed dosage is 1-3 teaspoonfuls of plant to 1 cup of water. Decoction This extraction technique is used for hard to extract herbs such as wood, bark, stems, and roots. Plants are boiled in water from 5 minutes, if the material is finely shredded, to 20 minutes, if the plant is hard or woody. Extract—An active principle of a medicinal substance obtained by dissolution in water or alcohol. An extraction increases the concentration of the drug by evaporation. The commercial method uses one teaspoonful of extract to one cup of boiling water. Tincture Tincture—Extraction of an active drug principle by means prolonged immersion in dilute alcohol of a fresh or dried plant. Tinctures are used in preparations of homeopathic remedies. The proportions are commonly one part plant (usually crushed) to five parts 70% alcohol. Soak in a tightly sealed container for 2-6 days, depending on the stiffness of the material, then compress the plant and filter the liquid. Syrup Syrup—A syrup is made with the juice of a fruit, and sugar. Juice is mixed with sugar and cooked over low heat until the desired consistency is attained. The syrup is commonly made out of 200g (7oz) of sugar in 100g (3½oz) of hot water. Tea/Infusion: One teaspoon of dried herb is added to a cup of boiling water and steeped for five minutes. Then either sugar or honey are added as sweeteners. Juice Fresh plants are pressed to extract the juice, which is subsequently refrigerated for one day while it settles and then filtered. Powder Dried plants are finely chopped and pulverized with mortar and pestle. The powder produced can then be administered, depending on it’s taste and texture, either directly or mixed with food. DICTIONARY OF INGREDIENTS Acacia Gum--(See Gum Arabic.) African Butter--(See Karite Butter.) Alfalfa Extract--An antifungal and nutrient high in vitamins A, B, C, D and E. An ingredient in many face masks, it has been used in the treatment of certain skin conditions, including skin damage from radiation therapy. Contains saponins. Allspice--The extract of the berries of the Pimento officinalis, an evergreen tree indigenous to the West Indies and South America, mainly used as a spice and condiment. Allantoin--Extracted from comfrey root. An antiinflammatory and anti-irritant, widely used in cosmetics for its soothing and healing properties. Almond Butter--The butter made from almond oil, used as an emollient. Almond Meal--The ground extract of the almond kernel, used in face masks. Almond Oil--Excellent emollient high in oleic, linoleic and other fatty acids, ideal in the treatment of very dry, chapped skin. Healing and moisturizing, with a sweet, pleasant fragrance. Aloe (Aloe Vera)*--A rich emollient known to promote healing to damaged or dry hair and skin. A natural sunscreen, soothing and moisturizing. Aloe Vera Fillet*--The whole gel-like "fillet" removed from the aloe leaf. An excellent skin treatment. Aloe-Mucopolysaccharides*--(See Mucopolysaccharides.) Amino Acid Complex (Cystine, Cysteine, Methionine)--Sulfur-rich amino acids essential to protein metabolism. Together they help regulate oil production and promote the gegeneration of new skin cells. Angelica--This herb (Angelica archangelica) is at the forefront of all medicinal plants. The dried leaves are very aromatic. Angelica oil and angelica wax are good skin care ingredients. Annatto--This waxy extract from the herb Bixa orellana is used as a natural color. (See also Bixane Herb.) Apple Oil--Extracted from the peel of apples and combined with the juice from the pulp. Vegetable glycerine is the carrying agent of choice. Apricot, Apricot Kernel Oil--Natural oil from apricot pits, also known as persic oil. An emollient similar in composition to almond oil, it has a softening effect on the skin. Aristolochia--Antiinflammatory and healing agent known for its skin rejuvenating properties. An excellent celltherapy ingredient. Arnica Oil--The oil from this herb (Arnicamontana) is rich in fatty acids and vitamins A, B, C and D. A stimulant, it is used in hair tonics and anti-cellulite preparations. Combined with vitamin E, it is an excellent natural deodorant. Ascorbic Acid--Vitamin C. Aubrey uses this vitamin as an antioxidant. Avocado Oil--A good source of vitamins A, D and E, amino acids and sterols. Traditionally used in treatments to prevent hair loss. Known to accelerate healing, it is recommended for eczema and other skin disorders. Balm-mint--An anti-irritant and sedative ideal for sensitive skin and skin prone to rashes and other allergic reactions. Soothes and calms skin and scalp and promotes healing. Balsam, Balsam Tolu--Mild antiseptics used in hair conditioners, soaps, creams and lotions for their antimicrobial properties and pleasant fragrance. Beet Extract--A natural red color. Benzoin Gum, Benzoin Bark--A natural antiseptic and astringent with antioxidant and preservative properties. Promotes healing. Bilberry Fruit--(See Fruit Acids.) Biotin--(See Vitamin H.) Biting Clematis--Though this is a poison when taken internally, applied topically, it is a calming agent for the skin and reduces inflammation and itching. Bixane Herb--The red waxy material in the seeds of the Bixa orellana, a shrub found in South America. Used as a natural color and as an astringent. (See also Annatto.) Black Currant Extract--(See Fruit Acids.) Bladderwrack--An algae high in iodine, often used in anti-cellulite creams and foaming bath oils. A stimulant and nutrient. Blueberry Leaves--The leaves of the blueberry make a mild, soothing tea that is an excellent tonic, as well as a natural astringent that does not dry out the skin. Bluebottle--(Centaures cyanus.) An excellent moisturizer. Blue Camomile--A rare form of camomile grown in Morocco, excellent in shampoos and hair treatments for its softening, emollient properties. An antimicrobial and antiinflammatory soothing to scalp and skin irritations. Blue Green Algae--Nutrient high in protein, amino acids, vitamins and minerals. Used topically, it helps clear the skin and scalp and rebuild damaged hair. Blue Mallow--An emollient and skin-softener. Borage Oil--An antiinflamatry high in gamma-linolenic acid, very beneficial to the skin. Combined with Rosa Mosqueta oil and alfalfa extract, it makes an excellent treatment for aging or dry skin. Burdock--An antiseptic and antibacterial used topically in the treatment of eczema and other skin irritations. Its essential oil is thought to help stimulate hair growth and soothe certain scalp conditions. Cade Tar--Scalp toner and cleanser helps prevent dandruff and flaking. Calaguala Fern--Ancient Mayan treatment for psoriasis, eczema and other conditions, very soothing to scalp and skin. Calamine--A natural blend of zinc oxide and a small amount of ferric oxide used in skin lotions, ointments and liniments for the treatment of itchy skin and rashes. Calendula--The common Marigold (Calendula officinalis) is known for its healing and analgesic properties. It is a frequent ingredient in ointments and in natural deodorants. Camomile--Used to treat problem skin since ancient times for its sedative and emollient properties. A softening agent for rough or irritated skin, its soothing properties also work well on hair. (See also Roman Camomile; Blue Camomile.) Camphor Oil--Antiseptic, stimulant and antiinflammatory. Used in small amounts in lotions and creams for its cooling and soothing effects. Carmine--The natural red color obtained from the Cochineal (an insect that feeds on the cactus plant). Carotene-Provitamin A--Orange or red compounds that occur in plants or in the bodies of plant-eating animals, which are precursors to vitamin A. Carragahenin, Carrageenan--A seaweed high in sulfur and very nourishing to the skin. A natural stabilizer, binding agent and emulsifier. Also known as Irish moss, it has been used in food and medicines in India for hundreds of years. It is similar to fucus and other seaweeds in fragrance and color. Carrot Oil--Rich in beta carotene and vitamins A and E, topical application of this oil promotes the formation of new cells and stimulates the production of sebum in dry, scaly scalps and skin. Castile--(See Olive Oil Castile.) Cayenne Pepper Oil (Capsicum)--Powerful analgesic works by blocking the activity of substance P in the body, necessary for the transmission of pain impulses. Applied topically, it soothes sore muscles and stimulates circulation. Cedarwood Extract--A natural fragrance. Centaury (Century Herb)--An herb that can be used in cosmetics to remove freckles and other skin discolorations. Often used as a natural color. Chestnut Extract--Extract used as a natural brown color in makeup formulas. Chlorella--A seaweed often used in celltherapy treatments which acts as a natural skin hydrator and moisturizer. Combined with other seaweeds, such as sea ware, laminaria and bladderwrack, it is a key ingredient in vegetarian celltherapy treatments. Chrysanthemum--Often called pellitory or Persian pellitory, it is used as a safe and natural insect repellent. Its astringent properties make it a good ingredient for skin care formulations. Cinnamon--A fragrant spice, used as a coloring agent in natural makeup powders. Citric Acid--An extract from citrus fruits used as a natural pH adjuster in cosmetics. Citrus Seed Extract-Aubrey's own natural preservative uses grapefruit seed extract, often combined with vitamins A, C and E (as well as Neem oil) for maximum effectiveness. Clove Oil--Analgesic and anti-irritant, this oil is known to reduce the pain of toothaches. Coconut Fatty Acids--Also known as Vitamin F, which contains linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids, the essential fatty acids. In Aubrey's Coconut Fatty Acid Base these fatty acids are combined with aloe vera and vitamins A, C and E. Coconut Fatty Alcohols--The long-chain fatty alcohols from coconut palm kernels, which are natural emollients. Aubrey uses natural fatty acids combined with natural fatty alcohols in his Coconut Fatty Acid Base and Essential Fatty Acid Base. Coconut Milk--The milk from coconuts is a natural hair and skin emollient. Coconut Oil--Rich emollient converted into a soap through a saponification reaction with salt. Beware of cosmetics that bill themselves as "natural" and use a synthetically processed derivative, sodium lauryl sulfate, claiming it comes "from coconut oil." Collagen--(See Soluble Collagen.) Coltsfoot--High in silicic acid and the amino acid cystine, present in the hair protein keratin. Cystine, applied topically, is known to help strengthen the hair and promote growth. Comfrey--An antiinflammatory known for its healing and emollient properties. It is also a source of mucopolysaccharides and allantoin, used in celltherapy treatments. Coneflower--An excellent moisturizer for the skin. Coprah--(See Coconut Fatty Acids.) Corn Syrup--A natural emulsifier, it is also beneficial in reducing the damage caused by chlorine to the hair. Cucumber--Used in facial creams, lotions and cleansers for its astringent, soothing and cooling properties on the skin. Desert Herb Complex-Aubrey's unique hair-building formula, consisting of Jojoba Oil, Aloe Vera and Yucca Root. (For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Earth Smoke (Fumitory)--A purifier and tonic said to be effective in clearing the skin and fading age and sun spot and other imperfections. Combined with ginkgo leaf, it has been shown to improve hair permeability and scalp circulation. Aubrey features earth smoke in his Mandarin Magic hair and skin care line. Echinacea Root Oil--A texturizer and firming agent used in celltherapy treatments and anti-wrinkle creams. Elastin--A dermal protein like collagen and reticulin. Applied topically, it is an excellent emollient that helps attract and retain moisture and elasticity. (From bovine sources.) Elder Blossoms (Elder Flowers, Elder Berries)--A mild astringent. Essential oil is high in fatty acids (66%) and very beneficial to the hair and skin. English Lavender Glycerine--(See Lavender Oil.) Essential Fatty Acid Base--Rich in linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids (vitamin F), this base also contains the essential amino acids cysteine, cystine and methionine, which are high in sulfur and very beneficial to the hair and skin. The essential fatty acid base is blended with fatty alcohols from palm kernels, aloe vera, and vitamins A, C andE. Essential Fatty Acid and Dermal Protein Base--Aubrey's special herbal/protein base consisting of: · Coconut Fatty Acids · Collagen · Coconut Fatty Alcohols · Vitamin F · Reticulin · Aloe Vera · Elastin (For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Eucalyptus--Antiseptic and antibacterial, this fragrant oil is used in cleansers, massage formulations and bath oils for its antimicrobial properties and its cooling, soothing effect on the skin and scalp. Evening Primrose Oil--High in essential fatty acids, it is the only source of gamma-linolenic acid besides mother's milk. Astringent and sedative, it is an excellent treatment for dry, flaky skin and skin prone to eczema. Evergreen Oil--The oil extracted from the leaves of the evergreen magnolia is a mild skin tonic with soothing and astringent properties. Often called the cucumber tree, and like that vegetable the oil has a cooling effect on the skin. The bark, stems, seeds and blossoms of the magnolia are often used as a fragrance. It is said that if the bark of the magnolia is chewed, it will cure the desire for tobacco. (See also Magnolia Blossoms.) Eyebright--A tonic and astringent. Fatty Acid Esters--Esters are waxes derived from plants and animals, which are less greasy than fatty acid (oily) extracts. Cetyl alcohols from coconut palm kernels, and lanolin from wool, are examples of fatty acid esters. Used in cosmetics as an absorption base and as an emulsifier. Fennel--An antibacterial with a slight "tightening" action on the skin. Rich in oleic and linoleic acids, essential fatty acids highly beneficial to the skin. Feverfew--An analgesic and antiinflammatory. Topically applied, a tincture of feverfew immediately relieves the pain and swelling from insect bites, rashes and other skin irritations. Forsythia Fruit--An excellent antiinflammatory herb for skin care products. The Chinese call it Lien-chiao. Fruit Acids--A group of acids naturally occurring in fruits and herbs that have been used in cosmetics for thousands of years to clear and smooth the complexion. Alpha-hydroxy Acids is the patented trade name for fruit acids, which are synthetically derived in most commercial formulations. (Alpha-hydroxy Acids are now being used in some cosmetics, but were originally used as solvents in cleaning compounds and for tanning leather.) Aubrey uses only fruit acids from natural sources in his products--bilberry herb, black currant, grapefruit (glycolic, maltic, citric and lactic acid). Individual fruit acids are used in various products for their skin cell rejuvenation properties, but fruit acids as a group are featured in Aubrey's Apricot & Amidroxy products. Fucus--A seaweed rich in alginic acid, amino acids, polysaccharides, minerals and vitamins. Its essential oil is a stimulant often used in massage lotions, anti-cellulite preparations and some hair care products for its ability to increase blood circulation to the skin or scalp. Geranium Oil--An antifungal and antibacterial, sometimes also used as a fragrance. German Camomile--(See Camomile.) Ginger--A stimulant and anti-irritant, its warming, soothing properties are very beneficial to the skin. Sometimes used as a fragrance. In both powdered and liquid form, it is an excellent ingredient for bath oils and other cosmetics. Ginkgo Leaf (Ginkgo biloba)--Astringent and sedative, this ancient Chinese herb has been used in formulations to combat the effects of aging since 2,800 B.C. Combined with earth smoke, it has been shown to improve hair permeability and scalp circulation. Aubrey features ginkgo in his Mandarin Magic line. Ginseng Root--One of the most prized herbs in China. An important tonic herb for anti-wrinkle creams and other hair and skin care products. Glycolic Acid--A fruit acid from sugar cane often used as a peeling agent by dermatologists. (See also Fruit Acids.) Glyco-Protein (Glycogen and Polysaccharides)--Glycogen (derived from oyster shells) and polysaccharides are natural starches that can be quickly converted into protein, a vital nutrient highly beneficial to the hair. Grapefruit Seed Extract--See Citrus Seed Extract (preservative) above. Green Tea--The anti-carcinogenic effects of green tea on the skin have been widely documented. It contains polyphenolic antioxidants, which play an important role in the prevention of skin cell damage. Applied topically in creams and lotions, green tea has a soothing and moisturizing effect on the skin, and research has shown that it protects from the dangers of UV rays, which can cause skin cancer. Aubrey uses organic green tea from Japan in his formulations. Goa Herb--A natural astringent, its chemical affinity for the keratin elements of the skin make it a natural treatment for eczema, psoriasis and acne. A calming, soothing agent for itching, flaking and other skin irritations. Gum Arabic--An herbal gum used as a thickener and emulsifier in creams and lotions, and as a hair set in styling gels and sprays. Often combined with Gum Tragacanth. Gum Tragacanth--An herbal gum frequently used as a thickener and binding agent in creams and lotions, and as a setting agent in hair sprays and gels. Gum arabic and gum tragacanth are both natural alternatives to synthetic polymers such as PVP, found in most commercial hair products. Hamamelis Water--A witch hazel extract. Hematite--A natural mineral used as a color in face powders and makeups. Henna--A rich conditioner and humectant, its antifungal, antibacterial properties have made it a staple in shampoos and hair rinses for hundreds of years. We use neutral, non-coloring henna. Honey--Used as a thickening agent in cosmetics and to give body to facial masks. Honeysuckle Oil--Known for its sweet fragrance, this oil is also an excellent cleanser and purifier used in facial creams, shampoos and soaps. We combine this aromatic oil with rose hip seed oil (Rosa rubiginosa), in our exclusive Honeysuckle Rose line. Hops--Antimicrobial and sedative, it calms, tones and softens the skin. Horse Chestnut--A mild astringent and skin lightener often found in anti-cellulite treatments. Also used in products for sensitive skin for its sedative properties. Horsetail--Often used in conjunction with coltsfoot in hair care products. High in silicic acid, cystine and sulfur. Recommended for hair loss prevention and to help regulate production of oil in the scalp. Indigofera (Indigo Blue)--A natural plant color which is a deep blue to purple. A safe natural color, it also has antiseptic properties. Inositol--B vitamin naturally occurring in lecithin produced by the body. More inositol is found in the body than any other nutrient. Essential for cell respiration, it helps strengthen the scalp. (See Vitamin B-complex.) Iodides--A compound containing iodine, naturally occurring in plants that grow in the sea. Applied topically, it is an excellent antiseptic. Ivy--Its sedative effects calm and soothe the skin. Often found in anti-cellulite massage lotions for its skin-toning properties. Contains saponins. Jasmine--The essential oil of this aromatic flower is widely used in aromatherapy for its calming and soothing effects. A popular herbal medicine in China, it is often used as a natural fragrance in cosmetics and perfumes. Jojoba Butter*--A natural butter made from Jojoba Oil. An excellent skin emollient. Jojoba Meal--High in protein and natural fibers, this by-product of the oil-rich jojoba plant contains 17 amino acids. Its mild, exfoliating properties help wipe away dead skin cells and nourish and deep-cleanse the skin without drying it out. Jojoba Oil*--This rich extract helps the jojoba desert plant retain water during the long summer drought. Similarly, when used in cosmetic preparations, it not only acts as a humectant, but actually creates a protective film over the skin and hair shaft that helps keep moisture in. Highly effective on dry or sun-damaged hair and skin. Jojoba Wax*--A natural wax made from Jojoba Oil. Juniper Berries--An excellent toner and antiseptic, its essential oil is often recommended to treat chronic eczema, acne and other skin disorders. Kaolin (Mt. Kaolin Clay)--A fine, natural clay from Mt. Kaolin, in China, known for its drawing properties. Excellent in deep-cleansing face masks. Karite Butter--A butter obtained from the nuts of the Mangifolia tree in Central Africa, it is also called shea butter and African butter. It is high in triglycerides and has 5% fatty acids, 8% unsaponifiables, and 7% waxy esters. An excellent emollient for skin moisturizers and hair conditioners. Kelp--A seaweed high in iodine and vitamins A, B-complex, C and E. A skin and scalp nutrient, soothing and toning. Kukui Nut Oil--The natural oil of the kukui nut from Hawaii, which is often blended with other oils in skin formulations. A natural moisturizer. Lactalbumin--A natural milk protein high in lactic acid and containing the eight amino acids, it has been labeled "the most perfect protein." Lactic Acid--An acid naturally occurring in milk, which produces pH levels like those of the hair and skin. It is known to aid the natural moisturizing factor of the hair and skin. Laminaria--A seaweed whose essential oil helps attract and retain moisture on the skin. An excellent humectant and nutrient. Lanolin--The oil obtained from the wool of sheep, used as an absorption base in moisturizers and hair products. Lavender Oil--Added to ointments and creams for its sedative and antiseptic properties. Aubrey uses oil extracts of both English lavender and lavender from France. Lecithin--A vegetable extract high in natural fatty acids. Lemon, Lemon Oil--Has antioxidant and antibacterial properties. A skin freshener often used in cosmetics for its cool, pleasant fragrance. Lemon oil is obtained from the peel of the lemon. Lemon Grass--An antimicrobial and analgesic with antioxidant properties. Often used as a fragrance. Lime Tree--The flowers of this herb, also known as Linden Tree, have an essential oil known as farnesol, which is similar to aloe and camomile in its ability to act as a skin emollient. Aubrey uses it in skin care formulations. Liquid Protein--(See Vegetable Protein.) Macadamia Nut Oil--A natural moisturizing agent for skin and hair. Aubrey uses the natural oil from this Hawaiian nut in many of his products for its emollient properties. Magnesium--A mineral essential for nutrition and absorption of calcium and vitamin C. Applied topically, it helps regulate oil production of the skin and scalp. Magnolia Blossoms-The essential oil of magnolia, used in fragrances, and as a natural tonic for the hair and skin. Mandarin Orange Peel--(See Sweet Orange Peel.) Mango Butter--The butter of the mango fruit, similar to jojoba butter. An excellent skin moisturizer. Marigold--(See Calendula.) Marshmallow Root--A rich emollient that softens and protects the skin. Menthol--An antiseptic and antibacterial derived from peppermint, its cooling properties have a soothing effect on the hair and skin. Mineral-Herb Complex-Aubrey's special blend of herbs and minerals, consisting of: · Magnesium · Lemon · Zinc · Sage · Burdock · Saponin · Ivy · Watercress (For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Mineral Water--Aubrey uses pure mineral water in some products. It is the main base for the very popular facial spray Sparkling Mineral Water Herbal Complexion Mist. Mint--An antiseptic and refresher, its cooling and soothing properties make it a good ingredient for cleansers and astringents. Often used as a fragrance. Mistletoe--Known for its anti-spasmodic and soothing properties on sensitive skin, it is often combined with fennel, hops, camomile, balm-mint and yarrow in Aubrey's skin formulations. Morus Root--A mild astringent, this Chinese herbal is a key ingredient in Aubrey's Mandarin Magic line. Mucopolysaccharides*--(From aloe vera.) Plant or animal substances which bind with water to form the thick, jellylike material that cements cells together. Used in skin and hair care formulations for their ability to retain water. (Aubrey Organics uses only natural, organically-grown aloe vera.) Myrrh--A superb astringent, stimulant and antiseptic. Its mild antimicrobial action is recommended for sensitive skin. Often used as a fragrance. Myrtle Herb Extract--An aromatic stimulant and mild tonic. Myrtus Leaf Extract--A natural astringent. Sometimes used as a fragrance. Natural Flower Oil--Oil obtained from flowers to create perfumes free of chemical additives. A natural fragrance. Natural Moisturizing Factor-Aubrey's special formulation combining potassium, calcium and essential fatty acids (vitamin F) with lactic acid, an acid naturally occurring in milk, which produces pH levels like those of the hair and skin. Nettle--An excellent tonic, high in phosphates and trace minerals. Said to stimulate hair growth when applied directly to the scalp. Niacin--Vitamin B-3. (See Vitamin B-complex.) Oatmeal--A natural cleanser and toner, its mild exfoliating action makes it an excellent addition to facial masks. It has a slight bleaching effect and is said to help fade or remove "age spots" and other skin discolorations. Olive Oil Castile--Saponified with salt, it becomes an excellent soap, mild and soothing to the skin. A natural emollient. Orange Blossom Extract--The fragrant oil obtained from orange blossom, which contains an orange-flower fragrance. Used in perfumes. PABA (Para-aminobenzoic acid)--A water-soluble B vitamin that acts as a skin nutrient and sun protector, screening out damaging UV rays. Works best in combination with other sunscreens like jojoba oil and aloe vera. We use only food-grade PABA in our products. Recent FDA regulations recommend that PABA be listed on ingredients labels as para-aminobenzoic acid. PABA Plant Extract-Aubrey's own formulation consisting of: · Willow Bark · Myrtle Herb · Myrtus Leaf · PABA (Para-aminobenzoic acid)-Vitamin B-5 Blend · Aloe Vera Gel (For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Palm Oil--Obtained from palm kernels, this rich oil is similar to coconut oil, and naturally saponified, makes an excellent, mild soap. Panthenol--Vitamin B-5, a hair thickener. Helps prevent hair loss and strengthen and nourish the scalp. A natural skin hydrator. Also known as Pantothenic Acid. Papaya--An excellent skin softener. Passion Flower--Its roots and leaves are used in skin care formulations as an anti-irritant and antiinflammatory,.br> Peanut Oil--An excellent emollient often found in natural massage oils. Pectin--Obtained from the cell walls of plants, the peel of citrus, and apple pomace. Used as a thickening agent in natural cosmetics. Pellitory-of-the-Wall--Herbal extract known for its moisturizing and emollient effects. Aubrey combines it with the mallows, elder and arnica in many of his natural moisturizers. Pennyroyal--A member of the mint family, pennyroyal is a strong purifier, antiseptic and freshener. It is a natural insect repellent, known to drive away fleas, and is featured in Aubrey's Organimals line of pet grooming products. Peppermint Oil--An excellent antiseptic and astringent used in shampoos and hair rinses. An antiinflammatory, it soothes and tones problem scalp and blemished, irritated skin. Pine Needle Oil--Extract from the needle of Dwarf, Scotch and Siberian pines. Antimicrobial and antibacterial, it is sometimes added as a fragrance. Pine Tar--Natural remedy for dry or flaking skin. Pine-Tree--The extract of pine tree leaves is blended with witch hazel, red vine and other herbals for its tonic effect on the skin. Combined with hops, rosemary and horsetail, it makes an excellent celltherapy moisturizer. Polyvalent Tissue Extracts--The term "polyvalent" refers to phytotherapy skin care treatments for sensitive skin. Polyvalent tissue extracts combine herbals known to have inflammation-inhibiting properties--fennel, hops, camomile, balm-mint, mistletoe and yarrow. (See individual listings of these herbs for more information.) Primrose Oil--(See Evening Primrose Oil.) Protein--(See Vegetable Protein; Soya Protein.) Queen's Meadow--Also known as Lady of the Meadow and meadowsweet, it was considered a sacred plant by the Druids. It is used in cosmetics as an astringent and tonic, and is recommended for itchy, irritated and sensitive skin. Quillaya Bark--A natural soap with excellent foaming and cleansing abilities containing 9-10% saponins. Recommended for problem scalp, dandruff, skin irritations and athlete's foot. Red Vine--Soothing herbal known for its smoothing, toning properties and as an "anti-blotchiness" skin treatment. It is combined with St. John's wort, arnica, witch hazel, horse-chestnut and ivy in many of Aubrey's skin care products. Reticulin--A dermal protein often used in "cellular repair" cosmetics. Applied topically, it is easily absorbed into the skin to help retain moisture. (From bovine sources.) Riboflavin--Vitamin B-2, part of the vitamin B-complex. Roman Camomile Oil--Known for its sedative and emollient properties, its use in hair and skin care goes back to ancient times. Recommended for all hair types for its soothing and healing properties. Brings out highlights in lighter hair. Rosa Mosqueta Rose Hip Seed Oil--Oil from the rose hips of rosa rubiginosa, a rare mountain rose that grows in the Andes mountains of Chile. High in linoleic and linolenic acids as well as vitamin C, essential for the health of the hair and skin, rosa rubiginosa has been used by South American Indians for hundreds of years for its healing and moisturizing properties to the hair and skin. Aubrey combines this very special oil with many other herbals and essential oils in his top-selling Rosa Mosqueta line. (Rosa Mosqueta is a registered trademark of Aubrey Organics.) Rosemary--Toner and purifier, with antimicrobial properties, beneficial to both hair and skin. Rosewater--A water-based dilution of the essence of roses used in cosmetics since the 10th century. Sage--A purifier and tonic. Its mild antibacterial action makes it nonirritating and ideal for sensitive skin or scalp. Saponin--Natural glycosides that foam in water. A mild, organic detergent and skin purifier. Sea Herbal Complex-Aubrey's special blend of herbals from the sea consisting of: Seaweed Extract, Sea Ware Herb and Sea Salts. (For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Sea Salts--Obtained from seaweeds, they are used in bath products for their tonic action. Sea Ware Herb--One of the popular seaweeds used in facial cleansers and creams. It has a toning effect on the skin, particularly when combined with other seaweeds in cosmetic formulas. In facial cleansers it reacts with the oils to form a natural soap. Seaweed Extracts-Aubrey's special blend of herbal extracts from the sea consisting of variations of the following: · Bladderwrack · Carragahenin · Fucus · Iodides · Laminaria (Herbals used will vary in different formulations. See list on the bottle or catalog entry for exact Seaweed Extract ingredients on a particular product. For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Selenium--A yellowish or brown mineral discovered in the earth's crust in 1807, it is used as a dandruff treatment in shampoos. An excellent treatment for problem scalp, Aubrey uses it in small amounts, as it can irritate the eyes. Shea Butter--(See Karite Butter.) Siberian Pine Needle Oil--Used for its natural fragrance, it also acts as an astringent in cosmetics. Silk Powder-Obtained from silk, it is high in amino acids. As a makeup powder, it leaves skin soft and smooth. Skullcap--A mild antiseptic and stimulant. Soap Bark, Soap Root--(See Quillaya Bark and Yucca Root.) Soluble Collagen--This dermal protein makes up 70% of the body's connective tissue. Applied topically, pure soluble (non-cross-linked) collagen is readily absorbed by the skin and helps retain moisture and elasticity. (From bovine sources.) Soya Protein--Vegetable protein from soya. Applied topically, it is an excellent hydrator, readily absorbed by the skin for improved texture and resiliency. In hair formulas, it combines with fatty acids and amino acids to coat porous or damaged hair and help repair split-ends. (See also Vegetable Protein.) Squalene--Olive oil extract. (See also Olive Oil.) St. John's Wort--An excellent emollient and skin softener, this soothing herb is widely used in our skin care products as a healing agent for chapped, dry, wrinkled or irritated skin, and in our suncare and after-sun products. Also very beneficial to damaged or dry hair and scalp. Sunflower Oil--An emollient extracted from the seeds of the sunflower. Rich in essential fatty acids, it is a good base for massage oils and lotions. Sweet Orange Peel--Contains flavonoids and vitamins A, B, C and E. (See also Orange Oil.) Tea Tree Oil--Distilled from the leaves of the Australian tree Melaleuca alternifolia. An antiseptic and germicide. Titanium Dioxide--This naturally occurring mineral is processed into microcrystals that protect the skin by blocking the sun's damaging rays. This reflecting agent can actually reduce the effects of UV rays in their full spectrum (both A and B rays). Aubrey has found a method of using it in sunblock formulations without allergic reactions and without leaving a white tint on the skin. Combined with natural PABA (Para-aminobenzoic acid), it is a superb sun protection agent and a leading ingredient in our strongest sunblock, Titania SPF-25. Tyrosene--Amino acid that plays a part in the production of melanin, a dark pigment found in the skin. Combined with riboflavin (vitamin B-2), it is used to accelerate and maintain the tanning effects of the sun in our Tan Up and After Sun products. Vegetable Glycerine--A rich humectant, emollient and lubricant naturally extracted from vegetable oils, glycerine has been used in cosmetic formulations for thousands of years. Synthetic glycerine, derived from propylene alcohol, is highly irritating to the skin and scalp and should be avoided. Vegetable Protein--Termed "the building block of life," protein is our most important food, a leading source of vitamins and essential amino acids. Generally found in meats, eggs and dairy products, protein can also be obtained from soya, wheat and other plant sources. Applied topically, vegetable protein is an excellent hydrator, readily absorbed by the skin for improved texture and resiliency. In hair formulas, it combines with fatty acids and amino acids to coat porous or damaged hair and help repair split-ends. Vitamin A--Used topically as a skin treatment, it has been shown to clear up some forms of acne and to relieve symptoms of psoriasis and other skin disorders. Beneficial for dry or damaged skin, it is often found in sun protection creams for its healing and hydrating properties. A vitamin A deficiency reduces the mucopolysaccharides in the skin, which accelerates the skin' aging process. Vitamins A, C and E--Their combined action, blended with citrus seed extract, make an excellent natural preservative. Vitamin B-complex (Herbal)--Water soluble vitamins that when applied topically, help control excess oil secretion and reduce enlarged pores. Recommended for rough, scaly skin and blemishes. Since B vitamins are the regulators of the metabolic functions of our body and are constituents of the prosthetic groups of enzymes, they are important to skin cell respiration. Calcium D-pantothenate and inositol are the two important B-complex vitamins that are most beneficial to the skin and hair, and prevent seborrheic dermatitis and inflammatory skin changes. (See also Inositol and Panthenol.) Vitamin B-5--(See Panthenol.) Vitamin F--Consists of linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids, the three essential fatty acids. Vitamin F acts as a skin protector against infection, eczema and other skin conditions. Used in moisturizers, it helps rebuild rough, dry or damaged skin and hair. (The name usually used for vitamin F is essential fatty acids.) We include this complex of essential fatty acids in our Essential Fatty Acid Base, and in our various Coconut Fatty Acid Bases. (See also Essential Fatty Acid Base.) Vitamin H--Also known as Biotin, it is an important factor in the growth of tissue and for the correct composition of sebaceous gland secretion. A deficiency of vitamin H leads to dry skin and seborrheic dermatitis, which in turn leads to the formation of dandruff and crusts in the scalp. Vitamin H is vital for the maintenance of a normal fat metabolism, and also protects from hair loss. Vitaplant Complex-Aubrey's unique blend of herbals consisting of variations of the following: · Aloe Vera · Apple Oil · Aristolochia Oil · Arnica Oil · Avocado Oil · B-complex · Blue Mallow · Calendula Oil · Camomile · Carrot Oil · Coltsfoot · Comfrey (Allantoin) · Echinacea · Elder Blossoms · Horsetail · Inositol · Juniper Berries · Lavender · Marshmallow Root · Mint · Myrrh · Nettle · Niacin · Panthenol · Rosemary · Sage · Sarsaparilla Root · Soap Bark · St. John's Wort Oil · Yucca Root · Vitamins A, C and E · Vitamin H · Wheat Germ Oil (Herbals used will vary in different formulations. See list on the bottle or catalog entry for exact Vitaplant Complex ingredients on a particular product. For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Vitaplant Hair Complex-Aubrey's special blend of herbals beneficial to the hair, consisting of variations of the following: · Amino Acids · Burdock · Henna · Ivy · Jojoba · Lemon · Sage · Watercress (Herbals used will vary in different formulations. See list on the bottle or catalog entry for exact Vitaplant Complex ingredients on a particular product. For more information on these ingredients, see individual entries.) Walnut Oil--Oil extracted from walnuts, which can be used as a temporary brown hair color, and in other cosmetics for its soothing and moisturizing qualities. Water--We use only pure, distilled water, or mineral water from a natural spring in some products. Watercress--A good source of vitamins A, B-complex and C. Soothing and healing, its extract is used to treat some skin conditions. (See also Vitamins A, B-complex and C.) Wheat Germ Oil--A skin nourisher that also acts as a natural preservative because of its high vitamin E content. Wheat Protein--(See Vegetable Protein.) White Camellia Oil--Rich, healing oil extracted from the white camellia flower, cultivated in the villages of China and Japan and used in hair and skin care formulations for over a thousand years. A superb moisturizer and nutrient for hair and skin, white camellia oil is available in Aubrey's White Camellia line. Wild Ginger Root--Also known as Nigerian root, this oil is used in tiny amounts as a fragrance. Aubrey includes both powder and oil forms in products such as Relax-R-Bath for its warming and soothing effect on sore muscles. Willow Bark Extract--The extract of willow bark, used in Australia for its ability to reduce the damage of UVA and UVB rays. Aubrey combines it with PABA (Para-aminobenzoic acid) and other sun protection ingredients. Wintergreen Oil--A tonic, stimulant and astringent, this aromatic oil has a "heating" or "warming" action on the muscles and skin. Excellent in body rubs and bath oils, and also in mouthwash and toothpaste formulations. Witch Hazel--A natural astringent. Often used to treat skin irritations, inflammation, insect bites and burns. Extracted from bark and leaves of the plant. Witch hazel water is 15% alcohol. Yarrow--An antiinflammatory used in skin and scalp treatments for its soothing and healing properties. A tonic and astringent. Yeast--High in protein and B vitamins, added to cosmetics for its nutritional value. Yucca Root--Used in shampoos and soaps for its foaming, cleansing and purifying abilities. Contains saponins. Zinc--Mineral essential for growth and cell regeneration, and to promote healing. It is often prescribed orally to help control some forms of acne. *Wherever noted, organically grown and processed in accordance with the California Organic Foods Act of 1990.